Sunday, September 28, 2014

The Passion of the Pederzani’s, Pancaldi’s and Persiceto

Sunday. The Passion of the Pederzani’s, Pancaldi’s and Persiceto

What constitutes a family? I was gazing into the country side of San Giovanni, sitting in the front seat of a Fiat, and moving just fast enough so the individual pieces of vegetation on the flat plane became indiscernible, melding into a subtle green blanket over the landscape. My thoughts pertaining to family were just the same. A discriminate definition was impossible, but the facets that comprised the warmth and comfort I experienced this weekend were all too clear. Bocelli walked in and out of my eardrums, my thoughts moving between the events of the weekend and the scenery that danced before me.

Stepping off the platform in Bologna, I completely unsure of which direction to move next. Unsettling? Strangely, no. Would it have been for most people, in a foreign country, in an unfamiliar city? Likely, but I was somehow just happy to breath in the air of Bologna. I meandered towards an escalator, seeming that the only proper course of action would be to move toward the “uscita” or “exit.” I reached into my bag for my phone, fumbling over a few loose Euros, my tangled pair of headphones, and finally locating the plastic lifeline. I dialed Maria, only to discover she was located 19 platforms away. Completely fine. With the direction of an officer, I turned right, up another set of stairs and went straight ahead, engulfed by a crowd of eager passengers travelling in the opposite direction. I moved towards another set of stairs. I stepped carefully, dodging loose patches of unfamiliar substances while keeping enough speed in my step to avoid being trampled by anyone trying to make the next train . I glanced up at the sound of my name, which I realized had come from Maria. My eyebrows shot up, my mouth shifted into a huge grin. We hugged as if we had known each other for longer than the embrace lasted. Cousins finally meet!!!

Alasandra and Giovanni were quick to spot the embrace and run over to meet me. I was in a state of bliss. We exited the station, crossed the street, and hopped on a tour Bologna bus, double decker style. Off to an exciting beggining, we chatted while sailing bustop through the narrow city streets of Bologna. I was discovering the historical origins of the major city in the Emilia Bologna region, from which I had ancestors. The ports, or doors, to the city were left standing despite the demolition of the city walls. Each passageway granted access to a different region of the city, with it’s own distinct characteristics, historical importance and current state of activity. The bus tour was followed by a walking expedition, so we could set foot in the churches, streets and shopping areas of Bologna. A highly informative presentation of the city was followed by a lovely lunch, where Maria, Alasandra, Giovanni, Franchesko (Maria’s boyfriend) and I each enjoyed our own personal pizza. My Naples style pie was topped with prosciutto di Parma, arugula, pecorino Romano and just the right blend of spices. After concluding a wonderful meal and making a few more stops in historic locations, we ventured towards San Giovanni of Persiceto, where the Pancaldi family lives. Winding through the countryside, which contained cypress trees, rolling hills, and a scene unlike any other, we arrived at San Giovanni about a half hour later.

The family’s house was adorable, a condominium complex with a terrace view. Maria and I chatted about the family, exchanging words while looking into the countryside. We decided to leave for a “spritz” with Daniele, her little brother. By bike, we rode into the city center, which was bustling with extra energy for festival of autumn. An annual celebration, the autumnal festival occurs prior to the start of the fall harvest. Vendors lined the streets while people crowded the city square. After securing our bikes, Maria, Daniele and I sat down to our spritz, a delightful orange drink with finger sandwiches and peanuts. Giovanni and Alasandra met us to show more of San Giovanni and take us to dinner. We were fortunate enough to gain access to the town hall, where Alessandra works, and where the familial relations of the Pederzani’s were discovered. Several years ago, my Aunt Donna was researching the ancestry of the Pederzani family. Alessandra recognized the relation between herself and Donna, while looking in the registrar at the town hall. Connections were realized, relationships were established and the visitations commenced. Donna and Geraldine visited San Giovanni years ago. I am proud to have set foot in the same place, held the documents detailing the history of the Pederzani’s and share incredible moments with the kind people I met this weekend, that I now consider my family.

The liveliness of the square had grown while we were in the town hall. Darkness had begun to set on the horizon and hunger had set in our stomachs. I was excited to try crescentine, a traditional meal made of what reminded me of a fried dough ham sandwich. Incredible. I ate this wonderful meal in the company of my family, meeting new members as well. Little cousins abounded our table- family was all around. I was in the serenity of seasonal festivities, joyful screams and happy family.

The next morning began with fresh eggs, crisped bacon and delicious ham. Alasandra and I worked to make a traditional American breakfast, which was much enjoyed by all. While in Italy, the meal usually consists of biscotti or breakfast cookies and a simple espresso. Today a larger, American style meal was shared. Breakfast was followed by a drive to Decima, where I was to meet Claudio, his wife, and his son- also my relatives. They lived in the original location of some of my ancestors. I stepped through the low archway that stood behind their current house, into the terra cotta structure that was the house of my ancestors. Leaving this space and stepping onto the beautiful outdoor lawn, I chatted with my cousins, making conversation and sharing stories. We sat down to enjoy an incredible meal, consisting of many courses, all of which were extraordinary. The primary antipasto consisted of prosciutto, ham, pickled zucchini from the garden, balsamic aged for twenty years and bread. Toasting to my arrival, we shared this course and then the tortellini, which was hand crafted by Claudio himself. Rice and meatballs followed, and then some secondini- steak Florentine, pork, vegetables and salad. Wine accompanied the courses, a perfect paring of aromas and flavors. Gelato was served as the final course. Hugs were exchanged, goodbyes were said and promises to meet again were made.


Driving away from Decima, I began to think about the merits of a family. Family is comprised of a warmth, an intangible collection of emotions, memories and loyalties which are embedded deep within the people that share the bond. Family also contains a brilliance- a radiation of soul and spirit that emerges when initial contact is made, something that elicits a sense of warmth unlike any other experienced. When I stepped off the stair to meet the warm welcome of Maria, it was an instantaneous bond that was fortified over the two days I spent in San Giovanni. Leaving the Pancalidi’s, I felt as though I was saying goodbye to people whom I had know for much longer than the extent of time I spent with them. I am excited to keep in touch, to keep the family history alive and to continue cultivating the already strong bond that exists in this family.

Friday, September 26, 2014

Power to the Pisa


Thursday. Power to the Pisa. Yesterday, I was inaugurated into the “tourist of all time” hall of fame. I went to visit the city of Pisa, where I cheerfully stood atop a pillar to take the legendary Pisa picture. The leaning tower is the primary, if not only, real attraction of the city. Originally a seat of the Roman military, Pisa has decayed in economic value, political significance and historical importance in recent years. In addition to the leaning tower, which is actually the belltower of the cathedral complex, Pisa contains an array of street vendors, as well as a historical sites, such as the campo santo- a cemetery. This cemetery incurred significant damage subsequent to being struck by a German bomb. The artwork has been reconstructed, but the nuclear impact is still evident in the fresco pieces. These figments of history, as exposed through the art and architecture of Pisa, bare stark contrast to the modernity that has swept through the city and contributed to the touristy vibe. Before encountering the tower, I was forced to weave through an empire of fake Gucci purses, Coach watches, and sub-par eateries (I guess I have already been spoiled). The sea of Burger King crowns and McDonald’s to-go bags detracted from any historical atmosphere that could have been present. The modernity versus history standoff was a near perfect reflection of the slightly angled tourists, posing with just the right amount of lean in their stance, in front of the cathedral’s belltower.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Street Shopping


Wednesday. Street Shopping. In addition to the academic opportunities that abound Florence, there are plenty of chances to explore, taste, shop and simply see. The conglomerate of moderate shopping venues and historical architecture creates for a distinctly unique scene. The earlier portion of my day was spent meandering the leather district and Ponte Veccio, both of which are notable features in the city’s shopping offerings. I was excited to make my first Italian leather purchase, a simple cross body bag (with a zipper of course to protect against pic-pocketing). I anticipate another visit to the district Friday afternoon and hope to discover more amazing gifts and memorabilia. Later in the afternoon, I was fortunate to attend a lecture on Michelangelo’s David, one of the most celebrated works of art in human history.  This seventeen foot, one inch piece of magnificence was truly humbling, beautiful and quite a sight in original form.

Monday, September 22, 2014

Memories in Munich


Sunday. Memories of Munich.  The trials and tribulations of the human race cannot be diminished by the universal elements than span our culture. While journeying outside of the country I have declared my home for the next three months, I encountered a variety of cultural practices, personal exchanges and bouts of tradition that had unforeseen similarities and differences with those in the Italy and the U.S.. After landing in a thunderstorm and being restricted to the confines of a seemingly tiny airplane, I could see wrinkles of frustration impress in the brows the tired passengers. Nonetheless, the smile of the baby a couple aisles up had the power to  cause everyone- even the stern looking businessman studying the stocks- to pause, smile and engage the shared human experience that makes our species unique. The recognition of emotion, mutual joy and overall vivacity of the people I met this past weekend made Munich memorable. Chatting with a couple on the train who will be moving to Singapore in December to embark on a new journey, and being amongst warmth of strangers singing Sweet Caroline a million miles from Fenway Park, are just a couple instances in my experience that have brought immense joy in these few incredible months.  

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Seeing Sienna.

Wednesday. Seeing Sienna. Today, I was able to enjoy the breathtaking Sienna Cathedral. Travelling to town via autobus, as the locals say, I parted ways with the pandemonium of Florence and entered the serenity of Sienna. Though I thoroughly enjoy the energy of Florence, I was delighted to spend the day in a quieter, quaint scene. The steep, intertwining streets led to the façade of the gorgeous Cathedral of Siena. This Gothic structure came to be around 1300 AD. After discussing the relative significance of frescoes that decorate the walls, the pointed arches that demarcate the Gothic architecture, and disjointed vertical lines of the buildings façade, I sat down to a lovely lunch. Perched at a local café where the bellower of the cathedral was just in sight , I enjoyed an incredible caprese salad. The ball of mozzarella in the middle neared the size of a tennis ball, and the chocolate cannoli to follow was of comparable size. Although the academic portion of my day concluded, the indulgences continued. I ventured to Eduardo’s gelateria along with a few of my study abroad-mates for a birthday celebration cone. While waiting in line for arguably the worlds best gelato, I met a couple from Denver, Colorado. Although our conversation originally centered around my studies and weekend plans, it quickly inverted to new technology for pediatric cardiology patients, electrolyte imbalances related to sporting activities, and medical schools in Colorado. Simple conversations like these, the smaller things, are what distinguish the individual experience of study abroad. Gazing into the façade of the Duomo, one of the most beautiful cathedrals in the world, while indulging in cinnamon flavored gelato and espousing my beliefs in healthcare as a humanistic centered practice rather than simply a scientific endeavor, just about makes me the happiest girl in the world.  You simply don’t know what you may run into, when you rest your textbook on the ledge of the desk, slip the computer into sleep mode, and step into the streets of the city.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Touring Tuscany



Sunday. Touring Tuscany. The Tuscan Wine School and beautiful vineyards of Tuscany introduced me to a new level of appreciation regarding the visual, olfactory and tasting procedures of wine consumption. A picturesque Sunday morning began with a lesson in wine sampling. The first step is the visual analysis of the wine, which occurs through the perception of color and pattern of droplets that result from swirling the wine in the glass. The resistance of the droplets to flow down the sides of the glass, as well as the size of the droplets, indicate the alcohol content of the wine. A medium to high alcohol percentage, which floats in the 13-16% area, is commonplace for the wines of the Chianti region in which we were tasting. Wines are defined by the region in which the grapes grow. In the Chianti region, wines are comprised of sangiovese grapes at a minimum of 80% of the product. The remaining 20% can be comprised of merlot grapes or cabernet sauvignon grapes (a personal favorite). After our discourse on the grape composition, regional classification and tasting methods, we caravanned to two different wineries. Our traveling counterparts were from Boston, Australia, Arizona and a few other places. There was even a fellow alumni Eagle! The first vineyard included a tour of the winery and explanation of the wine making process. Our group convened for our first sampling after learning the history and workings of the vineyard. We tried four varieties of the chianti wine, including the chianti classico, while enjoying pieces of crostini and good conversation. The next vineyard was smaller in size, but superior in product, in my novice opinion. At this vineyard, the wine was sampled over a three course meal. Traditional prosciutto and cheeses, along with bruschetta drizzled with balsamic, were the beginnings to a fine meal. The main course was a homemade pasta with red sauce, followed by pieces of delicious dark chocolate. Antioxidant alley was crowded that day.